Clap and Tikal

Although it takes another energy sapping day sitting in an uncomfortable minibus, we arrive in the beautiful town of Flores a couple of hours before the sun goes down.

Alex stocking up on sweet supplies during our latest road trip:

We get settled into our latest hostel. Accommodation choices were expensive in Flores so we’re in a six bed dormitory. The “deluxe” moniker means we get air con, large lockers, privacy curtains, personal lamps and an ensuite bathroom so it’s not too shabby. We book ourselves onto a tour of the Tikal ruins, which our hostel forgot to do despite communicating on WhatsApp (good job we checked) and again we’ll be up at 4am!

For the evening, we get our bearings of the small island and head to dinner at the highly rated Tikal Café. On our way there we pass a basketball court and sports pitch at the pinnacle of the island perched next to the large church. Many locals join in with the various exercise regimes going on in the cool evening air. The cafe has a bizarre menu system where you scan a QR code that sends you to their Facebook page and you have to find the menu buried on there. It’s not an ideal system, especially as I assume the menu on their Google maps listing is correct… it is not. Regardless we both end up ordering burgers, chips and a cocktail we assume was renamed from a White Russian to something about a pretty cat. Take that Putin.

Tomb Raiding in Tikal

After around three hours sleep, we’re up at 4am and ready to go and see the UNESCO heritage site that is the Tikal ruins. It’s a good hour away from town so Alex and I doze in the transportation to try and claw back some sleep. We’re rudely awoken by the bright lights and the shouting instructions to go and buy our entrance tickets. It’s a bit of a stupid system, we could have bought the tickets online but wanting to avoid the card surcharge, we queue with the other frugal gringos at 6am. The next stop is the entrance area, full of shops, a replica model of the ruins and a restaurant. We take the opportunity to order some breakfast and coffee. Alex’s American breakfast (with proper bacon!) arrives promptly. My French toast seems to take forever and arrives just as our group sets off. It’s man vs food speedrun time, with a little help from Alex I manage to inhale my breakfast in around a minute. Another queue to get in and we’re finally in the park around 8am.

Our group is nearly forty strong and our tour guide isn’t one for waiting around. The pace for the day is a quick march. If you don’t keep up, you’ll miss some of the information about the area and possibly get lost in this huge twenty-two acre jungle. We pass a giant tree where the Spanish group get to hear about it, no time for that in our group, onwards.

Eventually we do slow down as we are lucky to see a troop of spider monkeys searching for their breakfast in the trees above us. This is the first time we’ve got a good look at spider monkeys on this trip, known by this name as they use their tail like a limb so it almost looks like a giant furry spider when they use all limbs at the same time.

We stop for breath infront of the first set of ruins we see, here our guide goes into detail about his heritage and the Mayan culture that built this incredible area we’re in. 65% of Guatemalans are descended from Mayans, 85% of the country was converted to Christianity but the Mayan culture has found a way to survive and maintain its roots. The pyramid structure we are stood next to is built to perfectly align shadows with the adjacent structures, depending on the time of year and the position of the sun. The equinoxes throughout the year are markers for when the shadow will essentially point at pyramids to our right and to our left, similar to how sundials work. It’s not fully understood how Mayans were able to create and replicate this impressive feat here and in other sites across Latin America. Their understanding and interest in astrology is fascinating to say the least.

At the base of the pyramid we’re stood in front of are several tombstone like structures called “stelae”. These were actually slabs of limestone covered in a red dye where inscriptions would be made to note history, news and other important information. Similar to a modern day whiteboard.

The next piece of information we’re told is the famous Mayan blood-letting. As an offering to the gods, men and women would cut or sometimes use a rope of thorns to blood let from their ear lobes, tongue, lip, nipple or genitals. Ouch.

As we continue around the site we pass by Temple 1, at a height of 46 meters, this is the most uncovered pyramid in the area but not the tallest. It’s the one you’ll see most on postcards or pictures of Tikal. An American expedition here to find the tomb buried within the pyramid contains an important lesson. The project ran for six years without success and funding was running out. The American leader of the expedition decided to ask the local people what they thought. “You are in charge, we don’t have any thoughts, what do you think?” Came the reply. The leader saw an opportunity and put the local people in charge. They knew the way things worked and weren’t going to give it up to the interlopers taking charge. Once the locals took over they found the tomb within a few months. The tomb contained the remains of a King known as the Lord of cacao or the Lord of chocolate, our guide appropriately nicknames him Mr. M&M. Buried in his tomb along with jade, ceramics, jewellery and face masks/head dresses. What happened to the treasure found within said tomb was not explained, hopefully at worst it’s in a museum somewhere.

Further on, we are stood in the main square of this historic center. Our guide explains if you clap your hands right in the middle of the square, exactly between the two large temples, the echoing noise sounds like the noise a quetzal bird makes. On one side of us is a huge pyramid built to honour Mr. M&M. At the opposite end is an even bigger pyramid built for his son. They were always trying to one up each other!

Mr. M&M’s pyramid/tomb:

His son’s:

We have a bit of free time to wander around the heart of Tikal. On the temples and within the grounds we can see huge faces carved into the soft limestone.

There is plenty of ongoing archeological activity within this area. For the most part it is restoration, using the existing stones that are often damaged or displaced by weather or tree roots. It is not reconstruction, they are using the original materials. In another section there is an active dig going on to find another tomb buried beneath an even bigger pyramid. With a wink and a nod, our guide informs us that as the dig is being controlled by local people, they may never find the tomb (as they don’t want them to ship the findings off to some museum on the other side of the world).

We climb up a couple of temples for fantastic views over the surrounding jungle, with the occasional spike of stonework sticking out of the canopy. We’re told that Mayans would build buildings on top of buildings, temples on top of temples. Every 20 years or so at first, later becoming every 52 years, some believe this is every generation of Mayans.

After a good explore of the temple grounds we’re informed we’ll now do a jungle trek. Not to sound privileged and ungrateful but we’ve already done quite a few jungle treks so another hour of tripping up on tree roots and cautious of creepy crawlies is not quite what we expected.

It’s also impossible to hear anything the guide is saying when we’re towards the back of our large group in a single file line through the undergrowth. To be fair, towards the end we do stop to enter an ancient Mayan household. It’s a squeeze to get in as nature fights to claim back the land but we wiggle our way in and admire the impressive structure that has withstood the test of time. Alex goes explore a dark side room but soon comes shrieking back out claiming a bat flew at her. “A bat?” The guide says confused “oh no, it will just be a large moth”.

Our final stop on the tour is to interact with the local wildlife once more. It’s time for more eight legged freaks as our guide prods a stick into the home of a local tarantula. Alex and I are already stood well back as the group trips over one another trying to escape as it comes scurrying out of its nest. Time for a photo opportunity as gringos nervously line up to hold the furry beast on their arm or for the extra brave, the face. Having watched a dozen others do it without flinching I figure I’ll give it a go. Though I’m terrified of them in the house, they’re not so scary when out in their natural habitat. It’s super soft and almost oddly therapeutic as it gently crawls up my arm. I’m not sure I’d want it on my face though, maybe next time. I do feel slightly sorry for the arachnid as it’s passed from tourist to tourist, blown on and squeezed by our guide in order for it to show us it’s fangs.

We take a shortcut back to the main entrance/car park down what our guide calls “crocodile canal” ending abruptly in a swamp like area where we get a final look at Howler Monkeys resting in the trees above us. One of the group is unlucky enough to discover they don’t like tourists as they rain poo down on her from above.

We’re dropped off back on the isle of Flores and head straight for a street food truck that Alex has found on Google. Slightly put off by the server sneezing all over the bread basket before we order, we go for it anyway and load up on burritos, tostadas, tacos and bread, plus drinks for all less than a fiver in total.

It’s well above thirty degrees in the afternoon heat so we decide to cool off in the hostel ‘pool’. In truth it’s more like an adult sized paddling pool but it is certainly cool and in the shade so helps us regulate our body temperature back down to comfortable.

In the evening we have a gentle humble around the island and watch the colourful sunset over the lake. Circling the island to find the cheapest offer of super noodles (we are backpackers after all) we head back to the hostel to enjoy our gourmet meal. Going up to the hostel bar to ask for hot water I’m immediately pounced upon by a guy from the States. Clearly in desperate need of someone new to talk to, he makes small talk with me for a bit while Alex sensibly keeps her distance. I’m not sure how much he’s had to drink but an hour later he’s howling along to Blues music at the top of his lungs. The poor barmaid he’s had cornered for hours does not look impressed. After our Michelin star meal we head to bed, exhausted from our lack of sleep and 4am start. Funnily enough, a couple we met on the volcano hike back in Antigua are also staying in our dorm and we chat to them about past experiences and future plans. We will probably bump into them again on Caye Caulker in a few days time.

Jorge of the jungle

Surprised to have a free day on our hands without transport or a tour booked, we ponder what to do with our spare time. The most common option amongst tourists is to visit Jorge’s rope swing. A place to chill out, swim in the lake and enjoy a beer in a hammock. Doesn’t sound bad does it. Now to decide on how to get there. A motor boat seems too easy for us, so how about a kayak? We hunt around the small island trying to find the best deal. Our first option is a very good quality double kayak for the high price of £36 for the day. Tracking down Los Amigos hostel, renowned for their low prices, we can get a lower quality kayak for £10 for the day, decision made. After grabbing a couple of snacks we turn down the opportunity to take life jackets (this isn’t white water rafting) and set sail. We attempt to circle the island but realising we’re going against the current we give up halfway around and head for Jorge’s.

Upon arrival, Jorge and his family are enjoying watching a La Liga match on a giant TV. We pay the entrance fee and settle into hammocks overlooking the lake. Despite the occasional grunt or shout at the football it is a beautiful and peaceful spot. We haven’t planned very well and have forgotten to bring any books, games or even headphones. We chat for a while and figure it’s time to treat ourselves to a cocktail of sorts. Alex has a Cuba Libre while I try rum and this ‘Jamaica’ juice we have seen multiple times. I was hoping it would be similar to Jamaica Dry Ginger Ale but truth be told it is more like watered down cranberry juice.

You can’t kayak all this way out to Jorge’s rope swing and not use the damn rope so it’s time I gave that a go. For some reason it seems to be taking me longer to build up the courage to do these white-knuckle experiences lately. Perhaps it’s the sight of solid rocks to slam my legs into if I slip or let go too early. Or Alex’s warnings about rope burn. Anyway after a bit of plucking up courage I hold on and swing out above the water for what feels like a good ride. Letting go as the pendulum swing reaches it’s crux and dropping down into the refreshing lake water. Of course I immediately want to do it again so I have 3 or 4 more rides on the rope.

The other thrill seeking way into the water is the 5m tall diving board, for “back-flipping” apparently. Flip that, the one time walk along the plank and freefall drop is enough for me thank you. I much prefer the rope option so have one last ride to finish on a high.

Returning to the mainland, we’re devastated to find the burrito stall we got lunch from yesterday is boarded up closed. Starving and gone 3pm, we jump into the first viable option we find and I finally have quesadillas for the first time on this trip. Alex has loaded fries with some devilishly hot jalapeno peppers which are immediately transferred onto my plate. They’re a bit too hot even for me!On our way back to the hostel we pop into Getaway Tours that we booked Tikal with. Our man Mario is there to sort us out with a transfer to San Ignacio. Not only that but we end up booking from San Ignacio to Caye Caulker Island, back to the mainland and onto Mexico in a few days time. It’s nice to get it all sorted in one go and feels like hopefully we’ve got a good deal here.

Everything seems to have taken longer than planned today and I’m desperately running out of time to sneak off and get a Valentine’s Day card for Alex. In my panic I blurt out some nonsense about needing to look around the shops for Birthday present inspiration. It doesn’t go to plan as nowhere seems to sell cards around here and my last minute change of plans and rushing off has irritated Alex somewhat. I confess I was out on a secret romantic mission which has been a failure. My confession makes Alex laugh (and perhaps feel slightly guilty?) and we enjoy a beer on the island wall while watching the sun go down, back to our usual selves.

Alex spotted a sign at the hostel that somewhat cheekily offers a free beer in return for a Google review. Seems like a decent deal to me as we have both enjoyed the hostel anyway so we’re not selling a lie here. We gulp down an ice-cold Gallo beer and make our way over to dinner at Maple & Tocina. Over dishes of waffles, chicken, maple syrup and curly fries we discuss what our meal would be in the ‘dream restaurant ‘ a la the Off Menu podcast. It’s the best time to talk about dreamy food while enjoying delicious food at the same time. For desert we share apple crumble with vanilla ice cream and chocolate brownie, pretzels, more ice cream and caramel sauce. Yum.

Our final mission is to find a fridge magnet from Guatemala. We should have a nice collection of these when we get home as the chosen mementos to remember this epic journey. Another early start awaits us tomorrow as we head to Belize, the ninth country so far. We’re almost into double figures for new countries I’ll have visited on this trip!

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Adventure – Holding a tarantula for the first time since I was a schoolboy. Navigating the lake by kayak. Exploring the jungle enveloped ruins of Tikal.

Excitement – Rope swinging. Enjoying a proper treat meal with desert at Maple & Tocina. Bumping into fellow Brits from a previous tour.

Trauma – Finding it hard to sleep in the dorms.