Today our journey starts on a ferry, connecting Vancouver on the mainland of Canada to Vancouver Island. We spend the ride looking out of the window trying to spot whales. According to the children at the front of the boat, there are dozens of them flopping about all over… We don’t see whatever is most likely in their imagination. Our ferry docks at Nanaimo where we take a taxi across town to hire another car. We’re given another “free upgrade” to an SUV even though we just booked the “intermediate” package. This time we have a Mitsubishi 4×4, a bit older than the awesome BMW we had in Vegas but it will do.
We set off to the ‘Mountain House of Wonder’ a lovely accomodation we’ve chosen on Booking.com. On our way there we stop at a supermarket for some supplies. I’ve had a message from the saying to ignore Google Maps directions and stay on Meadowood Way. I don’t think much of it and we get back in the car. Around an hour later we pull off the highway and follow the Sat Nav up the hill. After 15 mins it suggests we turn onto a non-paved road, mostly dust and loose rocks (which are technically out of bounds with any car rental)… we’re in a 4×4 it shouldn’t be a problem. It’s very slow progress and there are a few skids and clunks. We get around one quarter of the way up and decide it’s a bad idea to carry on up this narrow rocky path. Somehow Alex manages to turn the car around and we head back the way we came. I then realise that’s the road they told us to avoid, whoops. Oh well, no harm done… Or so we think.
About three minutes later Alex says a warning light has illuminated on the dashboard. Then the car starts to shake and shudder. Hmm. We turn the engine off to give it a breather. Trying to drive again and the same thing happens, even when driving slowly the car shakes violently. A quick Google indicates this is not good at all and to stop driving immediately. A few curse words are said and we make a plan (mostly Alex as I’m very enraged at this point) and decide to walk the rest of the way and call Enterprise before they shut in 30 minutes (our phone package is data only). I make this even more difficult by taking us the wrong way (with our heavy bags on) and more curse words are said. Alex remains calm and focused. I now wait at the car with the bags while Alex literally runs up the mountain to the accom to be a (somewhat sweaty) damsel in distress. I await further instructions and before long a black BMW with an inquisitive looking man pulls up behind me. I assume I’m about to be mugged/car jacked to make this day even better, but it is infact our accomodation host! As we are at least one hour from any Enterprise, and they all close before we could arrive, we decide to delay the tow trouble until the next day. We’re lucky we broke down walking distance away from our night’s stay!
Before we know it, we’re checked in, shown to our lovely room, take in the incredible view and relax on the bed while looking longingly at the hot tub that awaits our presence. We soon get in it and forget all about our woes. Alex also informs me that Enterprise told her on the phone that the car had just come back from the garage for the exact same issue. So perhaps we didn’t destroy it and it won’t cost thousands of dollars to fix. Phew. From Hell to Heaven in just under an hour.
We have a quiet night in, enjoying a giant bed, spacious room and not being roasting hot while trying to sleep. It’s just what we needed.
Two Peas in a Pod
The next morning, after several frustrating calls to Enterprise that always cut off after 12 minutes (and they really waffle on so progress is super slow). We wait by our marooned car for a tow truck to arrive. We don’t have to wait long and we’re soon setting off in a cramped cabin of the tow truck heading back to Nanaimo. The truck can only take us so far as the repair garage at the other end of town so we must take a taxi back to Enterprise. The garage calls a cab and a man in a neon yellow shirt and matching hat screeches onto the carpark. You know when it just takes one look at someone to know this is going to be a character. It takes him no time at all to start ranting about how boring car colours are, why aren’t more cars neon pink or rainbow colours. No one shows their individualism and everyone is a victim of conformity. Without us getting a word in, he’s then onto why marketing is the devil’s work, how he used to work in mining but the accountants and bureaucracy drove him to quit, after threatening to blow some accountants up with dynamite no less. Then how all political slogans are boiled down for the “little people/village idiots” to understand but “he’s just a taxi driver so has no valid opinion”. All somewhat valid points (sorry accountants) but my god the guy did not pause for breath once. Thank the Lord it was only a short journey. He drops us off and after giving us a lecture on how to drive safely in Canada, finds his next victim waiting in the car park. Enterprise then give us a 2024 VW SUV that’s barely clocked 8,000,km which is nothing in Canadian distances.
Back on the road we head straight to a pub serving poutine, hoping to give our ears and minds a rest. Typically there is another loon in the pub loudly shouting his opinion on everything at the top of his voice and finding himself particularly hilarious too. At least the poutine and wings were very nice.
With a bit of time on our hands we head to a “Trestle”, no I’d never heard of one either. It’s basically a giant bridge made of timber, here are some pictures to help.
In need of some sugar to keep us going we make a stop at a wonderful place called “Ice cream mountain” and devour some delicious sweet treats.
Our plan this evening is to meet up with Andrew and Jacqueline, who you might remember we met on the Lost City trek back in Colombia just before Xmas. Andrew welcomes us to their flat (wearing an England shirt no less) and we drop our bags off before heading out to meet Jacqueline on her way home from work. Andrew teases a surprise and sure enough Jacqueline provides it, she is happily expecting twins!
We’re treated to a lovely meal and great hospitality while we catch up on what we’ve been doing for the last 8 months or so.
Serene Victoria
Thanks to the hospitality of Andrew and Jac, we take the opportunity to relax in flat while they are at work. Andrew has been baking while we slept and has kindly left us some homemade muffins for us to wake up to. We spend all morning and some of the afternoon lazing around and catching up on various things.
As usual, after laying around for too long, we both get a bit restless and decide we need a walk. We’ve been recommended the Galloping Goose trail (what a great name) and pick it up from just outside the flat.
We walk over to the main part of Victoria and just as we are deciding where to go next we bump into Jac on her way back from work. Despite being heavily pregnant and probably wanting nothing more than to put her feet up at the end of the working week, she takes us on a guided tour of Chinatown Victoria. It’s the oldest Chinatown in Canada and the second oldest in North America, the oldest being in San Fran (which we did not end up seeing). We walk down various tiny alleyways before ending up in a bubble tea shop. Alex has never had bubble tea before and it’s about time she tried it. Alex goes for the … And I try the Twisted Nipple (not sure who named these). They’re both very tasty but they’ve got far too many “bubbles” in them, which are basically like slimy balls of sugar that often get stuck in the straw.
Buzzing from all of the sweetness we continue our walk around the bay seeing sea planes, helicopters and water taxis all bobbing around the place.
We reach Fisherman’s Wharf before turning around and heading back to see Andrew and Jac for dinner.
We’re lucky enough to be treated to homemade poutine, our favourite Canadian dish. I must try making this myself when we get home! We have another lovely evening with our friends and enjoy a bottle of wine, one of which is from British Colombia, who knew you could make wine so far North!
Running Out of Time
Well it’s another Saturday morning and there’s a Park Run nearby, need I say any more! It’s an undulating route with great views out over the Pacific Ocean. The run director informs us it was possible to see whales here two weeks ago. He also tells us that Park Run first hit Canada in 2017 and has been growing ever since (with a slight pause due to you know what). We both have an enjoyable run and would love it if our local Park Run had such amazing views to distract us from the panting.
We return to the flat for a filling brunch, Andrew and Jac have kindly cooked every meal for us and have barely let us lift a finger to help. We really appreciate their hosting and boundless generosity that has helped us rebalance the budget in this most expensive country of our trip. We haul our bags down to the car, say our goodbyes and head over to a nearby castle called Hatley Castle.
After leaving the castle, we set off to the final accomodation of our travels as just the two of us 😢 and what brilliant accomodation it is too. We’re greeted by John who owns the magnificent house overlooking the bay from the Pacific Ocean. As he’s showing us around, a humongous dog appears and trots up to our bedroom door. “Do you mind if he goes in?” John asks, I’m not going to argue with this 80kg beast so we let him in. He hops straight up onto the bench by the window, “it’s his favourite spot” John informs us. We can see why, what a view.
We relax for a bit in the room before heading out to the 17 mile pub (only one mile away from our hotel). We have some yummy pub grub before heading back in the near darkness, once more jumping at any slight noise coming from the bushes!
Champagne Supernova
Our final full day of travelling as just a twosome! Now I have not had a haircut from a barber since the day after getting engaged in Belize, way back in mid-February. Since then, I’ve shaved it all off in the Philippines and tried to keep it somewhat tidy along the way. But as we’re meeting Alex’s family tomorrow, I feel like I need a professional to make me look presentable again. Having developed a slight phobia of going to the barbers during this trip, I’m delighted to have a friendly chap from Colombia chop my mop in Sooke town. Luckily he speaks fluent English so there is no awkward exchange in broken Spanish this time around. Funnily enough he’s also done a trip around the world and is thinking of doing another one before settling down for the long run.
Andrew and Jac recommended a nearby hiking trail, the full route is nearly 50 kilometers and requires camping overnight along the route. We will not be doing the full route. Instead we park up and walk a mile or so through the dense woods until we emerge on Mystic Beach. Here we spot seals popping their heads out of the sea while we enjoy lunch sitting atop one of the logs washed ashore.
On our way back from the walk we make a brief stop at a lighthouse. On the short walk down to it I realize that our trip started with a picture of a lighthouse way back in Lima when we went for a run with Romina. It seems somewhat poetic that our year long adventure has been bookended by lighthouses both overlooking the Pacific Ocean.
We celebrate our last night of couple travels with a delicious bottle of champagne generously gifted to us by Clive and Alex. Of course being seasoned travellers, we enjoy high quality champagne accompanied by supermarket chicken, microwave rice and salad! We take the bottle down with us to the hot tub and have a good hot soak while we finish off the bubbles. Not a bad way to mark the end of the trip 🍾🥂
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Adventure – First ride in a tow truck (Alex). Lunch while seal spotting. Exploring the sights of Victoria.
Excitement – First bubble tea (Alex). Amazing accomodation for our final stay. Catching up with Andrew and Jac, and finding out their big news!
Trauma – Car breakdown. Lunatic taxi driver.
1 Comment
I have meet several accountants and I agree with the taxi driver. Never thought of blowing them up with dynamite, what a good idea.