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My cousin Juan-Carlos gave us a lift down to the first hostel of our trip in Huacachina, near Ica. It was great to have the time to catch-up, and he invited us to a roadside breakfast with traditionally baked bread, made in ovens by the side or the road, stuffed with various fillings.

The journey flew by and we quickly arrived at the beautiful Upcycled Hostel. We managed to get into our private room early (nice to not be staying in dorms this time!) and were able to book onto a dune buggy and sandboarding tour that afternoon.

The setup and Huacachina has grown and improved so much since I was here 11 years ago, with a whole buggy carpark and the tourist ‘town’ of Huacachina now swarming with vendors and stores catering to tourists.

The dune buggy tour was as terrifying as I remembered it, not least when the bonnet flew up on the first bump and queue screams from across the passengers. Thankfully, he managed to secure the bonnet back down, and the following screams were now due to intentional drops and bumps and dives around the dunes. Thrilling is probably the best word for it (alongside some swears, screams, blasphemy, laughter and deep breathing!).

Sand-boarding is now belly boarding, and James went first to show us how it was done. We got three runs and (despite me refusing at first) we managed all three, with our reward of watching the sunset over the dunes. It really is another world out there, so it’s amazing there is a village and city so close within it.

Our next day was an early start to explore Paracas. We first learnt about the traditional Paracas textiles and crafts still being kept alive today, using natural products like bugs (textiles) or shells (jewellery) to create their products.

We then went on a boat trip to the Islas Ballestas with the cactus mysteriously ‘drawn’ into the side, and to see sea-lions and birds galore, and a couple of Humbolt penguins.

We returned to shore to explore the national park and two beaches that again looked like a whole different planet. It was impressively similar but totally different to the Jurassic Coast we visited before leaving, with its own fossil history and archways and pushed up layers of rock to show five different types of rock, and how shallow our layer of impact is versus the millions of years before us.

The sea was still freezing, even on the ‘warmer’ bay, and the wind wasn’t dissimilar to Mykonos making any heat from the Sun totally absent.

It turned out the winds were especially strong today because of a sandstorm that had arrived, so we had an impressive drive back through high winds and sand, and wondering how people survive even a moment in that weather, and this happens 10-12 times a year! This means they all take it in their stride of course, but provided a whole new memorable experience for us, as the sky turned from perfect blue to a light brown and hazing out the sun.

Apparently it should be gone in a few days, but we will be leaving it behind tomorrow anyway to make our next step south to a special stop for me, Acari.

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Adventure – Choppy boat ride to see rare wildlife, night time walk to find local food Polleria (rotisserie chicken), alien landscape of Paracas national park

Excitement – Sand buggy ride (James), sand boarding, penguin hopping on the rocks, our first hostel with friendly cats and dog and chatting with fellow backpackers

Trauma – Sand buggy ride (Alex)

The adventure begins! We leave the UK after a wholesome few days with our families in the late Summer sun. Saying goodbye is never easy but at least these days we can easily stay in touch with all our friends and family from the other side of the world.

The journey across the Atlantic Ocean was fairly smooth and we soon find ourselves at Lima airport. My first impression is the crazy traffic, it felt like we were in the Whacky Races with mopeds, buses, taxis, bikes, cars and trucks swerving everywhere and a cacophony of beeping horns. Our driver was a safe pair of hands and dropped us off in one piece at Alex’s cousin Romina’s flat in the San Isidro district.

It was time for the most important past time in Lima, eating! Our first meal was Pardos chicken, essentially a rotisserie chicken joint, not the most upmarket cuisine in Peru but when you’ve been travelling for 26 hours, you stick to what you know. Of course, we had to sample the famous Pisco Sours to accompany our meal. That evening we visited the Barranco district with Romi and Mario and watched live music at La Noche.

Our second day consisted of a history lesson in the Old Town of Lima. We had an energetic and passionate tour guide explain modern history of Peru including the wars, architecture, cuisine and culture. After the almost 3 hour tour it was once again time to eat. Alex took us to a ceviche restaurant called El Bigote (the mustache). I’ve had ceviche back in London but it was not in the same league as this fresh, delicious sea bass, choclo and sweet potato dish. We finished the day with cocktails and wine with one of Alex’s friends.

Our third day in Lima was our three year anniversary as a couple. First thing in the morning we joined Romi and her personal trainer for a run along the coastline. After freshening up we headed back in the same direction towards Barranco. Alex had lived in Lima a few years ago so acted as a tour guide (and translator) she took us to a Cafe serving Tacu Tacu which consists of rice, beans and a slab of meat.

After lunch we explored a few local bars, trying some variations of Pisco Sours and a tray of different craft beers. For our anniversary meal, Alex has picked out a special setting, a smart restaurant over looking the Huaca Pucllana. This is what could crudely be described as a mud pile but has been around for thousands of years as a place of power, worship and burial. Lit up at night it made a picturesque backdrop to our meal.

Our final day in Lima was a trip to La Planicie, which is a cul-de-sac backing onto a golf course where Alex’s family have lived for a long time. I was happy to meet a small portion of this rather large family at Tia Mari’s and Tio Pato’s family home. Their home was beautiful, designed by Alex’s architect Tio Freddie and the interior decor by Tia Mari who runs Casa Design in Lima where Alex used to work. We ate a tasty lunch of Lomo Saltado (stir-fry beef), chips, rice and choclo. Alex’s family were incredibly welcoming, generous and offered me a warm welcome into their lives.

Lima definitely grew on me, after you get used to the busy traffic and the concrete jungle there is a city with real character buried beneath. The food was out of this world, the people are friendly and kind and there is a real sense of community and family making the most of what they have.

James

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A few final words from me… It’s been so fantastic to show James my home from home, to share this part of my life and heart with him, and see how much Lima has changed and improved to welcome tourists. There’s a lot I still miss from Lima, the outdoor living, the food, the sea, the drive, and of course my family always showing me how to put family first and be unwaveringly generous. There’s a real feeling of opportunity out here still, that I don’t feel in England, and I’m so proud of friends and family who continue to strive and fight to make amazing lives for themselves.

It’s also been extra emotional being back and facing the notable absence of my Tio Pato. I can’t find the right words and I’m not sure I ever will, other than to say it’s been really hard. But I’m so grateful to Mari and my family for making the time to be able to show James a bit of the big family lunch in La Planicie he loved, to have another opportunity to hug my tios again, and to make new memories there that I get to share with James. Salud Tio, te extrano.

Alex

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Adventure – trip to and around Barranco

Excitement – amazing food, fancy cocktails in Limaq

Trauma – traffic, dentists, multiple bank visits, Ramon slobber attacks